An engaging and enlightening in-depth exclusive interview with costume designer ERIN BENACH discussing THE BIKERIDERS.
SYNOPSIS: THE BIKERIDERS captures a rebellious time in America when the culture and people were changing. After a chance encounter at a local bar, strong-willed Kathy (Jodie Comer) is inextricably drawn to Benny (Austin Butler), the newest member of Midwestern motorcycle club, the Vandals led by the enigmatic Johnny (Tom Hardy). Much like the country around it, the club begins to evolve, transforming from a gathering place for local outsiders into a dangerous underworld of violence, forcing Benny to choose between Kathy and his loyalty to the club.
Written and directed by Jeff Nichols, THE BIKERIDERS stars, among others, Jodie Comer, Austin Butler, Tom Hardy, Michael Shannon, Mike Faist with Norman Reedus.
Inspired by Danny Lyon’s 1968 photo book of the same name that documented the culture of the Chicago Outlaws Motorcycle Club through photojournalism, THE BIKERIDERS is fictionalized for the screen by writer/director Jeff Nichols. Structured and bookended in interview format with Lyon (played by Mike Faist) speaking with and photographing fictional Vandals Motorcycle Club members. the result is a beautiful cinematographic cultural slice of 1968-1970 Americana. And a big part of that culture and Americana comes through costuming and the work of costume designer ERIN BENACH.
Long an admirer of Erin’s work going back to the festival days of the Lori Petty drama “The Poker House” and continuing over the decades with her diversity and range in storytelling through costume, including her multiple collaborations with Jeff Nichols, Erin never ceases to amaze and tell a story with costuming that adds another layer to a film. And what a story her work tells within THE BIKERIDERS!
At first blush, one can’t help but note all the denim and leather on the screen. But dig a bit deeper and while denim and leather serve to create a cohesiveness and uniformity within the Vandals Motorcycle Club, Erin gives each biker or club member their own identity in the details that individualize each piece of wardrobe. Yes, the Vandals all wear denim and leather, be it as jackets, shredded sleeve denim vests, leather vests, standard “motorcycle gang’ style jackets, and some of the girls are even wearing leather biker hats a la Harvey Lembeck’s Eric Von Zipper of the 1960’s beach party movies, but then she ups the enter with the devil in the details.
Sleeves may be torn off jackets and frayed at the shoulder, but then each jacket/vest is individualized; in one instance, grommets circle the armhole with leather laced through the grommets. Patches adorn everything, be it leather or denim, and while some signify the club, others that are added on sleeves or collars are unique and meaningful to that individual. A standout long-sleeved black cotton shirt that Johnny and fellow club member Cockroach each wear is fabulous. Western style with pocket embroidery, 5 button cuffs, but with snap closures as buttons. Even the snap shirt closures differ between Johnny and Cockroach in shape and placement with Johnny’s appearing to be mother of pearl in silvertone as is fitting for a club leader and the guy who does have a full-time job as a trucker versus Cockroach’s “imitation” shirt that speaks volumes as to club position and Coackroach’s admiration for Johnny. And then there’s “Funny Sonny” (Norm Reedus) with a filthy shearling lined vest that is to die for along with a heavy leather fringe jacket and yes, both are so “Easy Rider.” And this is just a smattering of Erin’s details and designs.
In addition to the club members (and wannabe imitators around the country who appear in the second half of the film), Erin also had to costume the entire Midwest community as well as the girls who are arm candy to the club members, primarily Kathy (Jodie Comer) whose wardrobe screams 1968-1970 youthful streetwear. Kathy’s clothes are period perfect from white Levis to a lavender knit sleeveless mock turtleneck to the 1970/71 zip front short sleeve brownish tweed polyester. The authenticity is impeccable and defining for the culture, the period, and the individuals.
Color is key in not only the wardrobe but also in collaboration with production design and cinematography, particularly with the character of Kathy, as well as Vandals versus wannabe club members. Black and dark navy pop against the neutral Midwest corn and wheat country. It is just amazing storytelling through costuming and the significance of individuality within shared commonality.
Speaking with ERIN BENACH in this exclusive interview, we covered everything from grommets to broken sewing needles to 200 biker outfits, including but limited to:
- costume design for a 1969 biker film with focus on cohesiveness, individuality, and realism
- attention to detail as a means to create individuality; distinct and realistic
- aging, dirt, and overdye to create a vintage look
- inspiration from 1950s subcultures for the characters of Johnny, Benny, and Kathy
- leather and denim; fabrications
- color palettes; the Vandals, the townspeople, the girlfriends and wives
- Kathy’s distinctive color palette in connection with her surroundings/production design
- collaboration with cinematographer Adam Stone and production designer Chad Keith
- creating “look books” and image influences for each character
- sustainability; using vintage jackets; sourcing from real leather; challenges of creating multiples of leather; hand-tooling
- differentiating between the Vandals and the second and third iteration wannabes
- footwear; varying between characters; some characters wear boots from costume houses, and others have boots that are more a “personal style” highlighting the individuality of the character
- sewing and crafting 200 motorcycle outfits by hand for one scene
- collaboration between Erin and writer/director Jeff Nichols
- and more!
TAKE A LISTEN. . .
by debbie elias, exclusive interview 06/05/2024
THE BIKERIDERS is exclusively in theatres June 21, 2024.
